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How to Have a Bit More Fun With Your Winter Clothes

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Yes, we know. January is one of the most difficult months in the calendar, both weather-wise and all-round-glumness wise. But that doesn’t mean it automatically has to be something to grit your teeth through when it comes to your wardrobe. Though it seems everyone’s thoughts immediately turn to health and fitness at this time of year, that is not the only way to reset your attitude for 2020. Indeed, you may find that tackling your sartorial wellness will also reap dividends. So, why not pep things up a little bit? Yes, rather than fading into the grim, grey background with the dark, funereal ensembles we associate with the heart of winter, opt for something colourful that stands out and makes you smile. Spring 2020 is, after all, just around the corner and the first glimmerings of its new collections are beginning to arrive in the shops. So, make the most of them and set your style barometer to “positive” and “upbeat” – goodness knows we all need it. Here are some tips to get you started.

1. PICK A PATTERN

Staying warm doesn’t have to be a morose affair, especially in the current era of menswear, where a certain thrown-together, thrift store-like aesthetic has dominated for some time now. This outfit is a great way to break out of that mould: startling colours (yes, you can wear white in January if it’s corduroy), Birkenstock shearling-lined sandals and, crucially, that pleasing contrast between checked patterns on the scarf and coat. The reason it works is that the scarf’s check is far wider than that of the coat – rather than melding together into a foggy mist of squares, they stand out against each other.

2. TAKE A HIKE

In recent years, the visual language of technical outdoor gear has infiltrated the more trend-driven world of designer and luxury brands. And the best thing about this is, in winter 2020, you can dress in a way that is practical and still look like you’re on the cutting edge of fashion. Hurrah! So, don’t be afraid of fleece: here, we’ve actually put two on top of each other, a practice that’s particularly useful if you are having a good climb around like this chap pictured, because when you get too hot, you can simply lose a layer. The inherent design of technical sportswear, of course, also gives you a little more licence when it comes to colour – if you’re up a mountain (or just trying to look like you might be at some point) a bit of a clash is no big deal. Orange sneakers? Sure, why not?

3. PILE IT ON

Extremely cold weather comes with the implicit permission to wear a lot of clothes at once, which means that January is actually a time where you can test out some unusual combinations. Here, we’ve mixed garments with three different collar types – a rollneck, a zip-up shirt and a ribbed-collar bomber jacket – to pleasing and, perhaps, surprising effect. Now, we’re not suggesting you go out straight away and replicate this entire ensemble – although, trust us, you could – rather that you approach your January outfits in the spirit of experimentation. The rollneck is a particularly good starting point, as it will peep out pleasantly from under many types of outerwear. If you’re not keen on wearing a sweater as a bottom layer, as illustrated here, be advised: designers have also created jersey rollneck pieces this winter, which should provide a slightly more flexible substitute. 

4. LOOK ON THE BRIGHT SIDE

You can read a lot of rather dubious things on the notes handed out at fashion shows. This designer has read a book by Mr Roland Barthes and is now wondering if clothes can even be said to exist. That house is re-interrogating its historic connection with water polo, or Bronze Age ceramics, or cheese. How nice, therefore, to discover the word “optimism” on the mood board at Prada’s spring 2020 presentation in Shanghai. But it’s not surprising that it actually translates quite clearly into the clothes – this field jacket is the sort of colourful, technical and wry piece that the Italian powerhouse excels at. We challenge you to throw it on and not feel your mood lift.

5. TRUST IN CASHMERE

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: if you’re looking for one piece to turn winter’s biting winds into something more reminiscent of a warm hug, cashmere is the yarn to seek out. It’s light, it’s warm, it’s soft: what’s not to love? But just because the cashmere crew-neck sweater is a classic choice, it doesn’t mean it has to be boring. Take, for example, the varieties offered up by Los Angeles brand The Elder Statesman, which is known for its innovative use of bright colours (such as this emerald green, above), witty prints and a glorious range of eye-catching tie-dye techniques. Here, we’ve matched this bright piece with a scarf in a darker green, adding depth and texture to the overall impression.

The Pastel-Soaked Return of Miami Vice Style

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Sleazy, breezy, ridiculous, yes, but Sonny Crockett is also a fashion icon

It happens just the way we remember it: when he walks on screen and into the cultural consciousness as James “Sonny” Crockett, an undercover Miami cop trying to infiltrate a drug smuggling ring, Mr Don Johnson is already all Aqua Velva and five-o’clock-shadow swagger, wearing a white linen suit, aquamarine T-shirt and white espadrilles. In retrospect, and in the years since Miami Vice premiered in 1984, Sonny’s wild, blousy, pastel-coloured suits, tees and sockless suave have seemed (to me, to us all) at times ridiculous, outrageously cool and oh-so-Miami. Of course, all three of those sentiments are true. But those suits, and that style, helped to illustrate an aesthetic arc (for me, and for us all) that has, in recent years, begun again to bend towards the breezy, billowy silliness that Sonny made famous. But let me start at the beginning.

My dad watched Miami Vice, which means that I, as a child, inadvertently absorbed it more than anything else. I took it for granted, like wallpaper. What I absorbed was a balmy, neon-coloured machismo for which I had no taste, and something else that intrigued me, something cool. The cool didn’t just come from Mr Johnson and his partner-in-crime-solving, Mr Philip Michael Thomas (who played the grittier, double-breasted Ricardo Tubbs), but from the show itself. I was 10, maybe, when the show was a primetime mainstay, so I wasn’t yet aware of anything such as a director or mise en scène, but I knew that the way this somewhat sleazy world was being presented, and the way in which Miami (its colours, its places, its style) was being realised – or, really, fantasised – was special. Mr Michael Mann, the show’s producer (and the director of Heat, Collateral, The Insider and other macho classics) is now rightly revered for the concussive volleys of violence he orchestrates, along with the oil-sleek modernism of his visual taste in constructing a world.

If I can point you to just one clip that illustrates of all of this, let me show you this three-odd minute segment from very early on in the show’s run. Here is all of the slow-burn energy of a moody thriller, slick with the fetishisation of silent, powerful, manly men driving a Ferrari down a Miami street late at night on the way to a gunfight. The neon signs, the stilted call to an old lover, the percussive drop of Mr Phil Collins’ “In The Air Tonight” – this is peak Miami Vice, and signature Mr Mann. Oh, how I loved it. I loved the reflections of the streetlamps in the sheen of the car, loved the voluptuousness of the partners’ purpose, and the offhand oh-this-ol’-thang elegance of their clothes. For a young boy with no siblings, a boy who felt a bit estranged from mainstream masculinity, fogging up the window on the world of manhood trying to decipher its bro codes, this scene, this show was intoxicating.

I mean, I abhorred the violence and never really caught the car bug, but the clothes, and specifically Sonny’s suits, became a symbol for cool. Not the you-can’t-sit-with-us, Viper Room, in-crowd kind of cool, but something I took to be a bit more… mythic? As I say, I am aware, and have been since then, how ridiculous all of this sounds. But I wasn’t the only one who felt this way. This show really changed things, from the way Miami saw itself, to the way men’s magazines and their readers saw male dress.

“Before Miami Vice,” Mr Guy Trebay wrote in The New York Times, “adult males were not often in the habit of wearing T-shirts under sports coats or shoes minus socks. Most guys without ties in the 1980s would have been considered slobs or candidates for the unemployment line. Pastel-coloured trousers were reserved for caddies, pastel-coloured vehicles for pimps. Suits in the late Reagan era were still substantially lined and padded and as rigidly shaped as Barcaloungers, although with sleeves. Loose, crumpled garments were considered work wear for convicts or gigolos. Hardly anybody without a begging cup wore a straw hat… few men except bank tellers rolled up their jacket sleeves, and about the only folks who flipped up their blazer collars were the singer George Michael or patrons in some Fort Lauderdale gentlemen-only bar.”

That was written in 2006, with nearly 20 years’ perspective. And now, another 14 later, we’ve come around again on those suits – done in what was once called the Giorgio Armani cut, with a little Neapolitan in the shoulder and a little slouch to the lapels, a high waist on the pleated trousers, in linens the colour of malbec, or Trident chewing gum – and on Miami style. Look at the past few collections from Mr Dries van Noten, in which he’s shown suits in aubergine and almost tangerine, in voluminous cuts with 1980s lapels. Bottega Veneta, too, under creative director Mr Daniel Lee, is making menswear in International Klein Blue and Sonny’s dusty orange from later seasons.

And now that we’re coming around to the clothes, we are also embracing again the Skittle-coloured fun of Miami’s skyline, its sports cars and satiny nightlife. In Miami, a neon-green Lamborghini on Collins Avenue is not at all strange, a drab, grey Honda is. In Miami, everyone looks photoshopped, or a little frumpy if they aren’t in full Versace-level extravaganza. Which makes Miami perfect for satire, or at least imitation.

This week, Messrs Will Smith and Martin Lawrence return as a kind of cooler facsimile of Crockett and Tubbs in the third instalment of the Bad Boys franchise. The movies are as much about Miami’s decadent ostentation – its architecture, its sunsets, its bodies – as anything. In the trailer for the new film, Mr Smith’s Mike Lowery again dons a bright Barney-purple suit with a cotton candy-coloured silk lining – maybe it is the same bright-purple Ozwald Boateng suit he wears in the last film in the franchise, which he throws on (in gratuitous slo-mo, of course) over his T-shirt and holster (Sonny Crockett style) saying, “I put a little something on. I like to look good. What?”

In the new movie, Bad Boys For Life, the guys have a heart-to-heart conversation in what appears to be Mac’s Club Deuce, the beloved dive bar in South Beach. As they chat, they are surrounded by what looks to be the same pink and green neon that the original Miami Vice crew installed in Club Deuce for the show’s first season. (Update: we checked with the Deuce and the neon is not theirs; let’s give it an “inspired by” credit, and the fantasy creation of Miami continues.) The Deuce’s particular neon, a stage set creation by Mr Mann, is now a Miami icon with the same relationship to the real, “cocaine cowboy” era Miami as his fantastical pastel linen suits. Like the suits, that neon has already been imitated, and has come to represent the city like a mascot. And it’s so incredibly cool.

How to be Better at Public Speaking

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Five simple ways to improve the delivery of your next presentation, performance or speech

Your throat is as dry as dust. Your heart is hammering its way out of your rib cage. Your palms are slippery with sweat. This isn’t the moment before you leap out of a plane, at an altitude of 35,000 feet, in the manner of Mr Tom Cruise, as Ethan Hunt, performing a Halo jump. No, these are the long seconds stretching out into eternity as you stand on your own, before a group of people – all of whom are expecting wise, profound and entertaining words to come out of your mouth. With elocution worthy of Sir Patrick Stewart, of course.

Sound familiar? If so, you’re not alone; according to research conducted by the School of Communication Studies at the University of Tennessee Knoxville, around 75 per cent of us suffer anxiety when it comes to public speaking. For 10 per cent, that anxiety mutates into pure panic. “This is your nervous system going into fight or flight because you’re being stared at by lots of people,” says Ms Caroline Goyder, an author, expert speaker and voice coach to an array of individuals constantly put in the spotlight, including news presenters, actors and FTSE 100 CEOs. “And the primal part of your nervous system is saying it’s not a safe space to be.

“The thing to understand is that you can steer your nervous system out of fight or flight, into rest and digest – the other side of the nervous system. What actors, singers and jazz musicians learn is that you can slow down and centre yourself, so that when you walk out in front of an audience, it feels like you’re in front of your friends.”

Want to stop becoming a shivering wreck every time you’re in a meeting, or giving a best man speech, or wrangling a crowd of unruly children at a birthday party? We speak with Ms Goyder to find out how.

01. Relax

When you enter fight-or-flight mode, everything starts to go downhill – when you desperately just want to get the talk, speech or presentation you’re in the middle of, well, over with. For Ms Goyder, the solution is as simple as understanding the body language of the fight-or-flight response – tense shoulders, a tense jaw, your breath going up into the chest, a speeding up of everything – and adjusting it accordingly in order to trigger the opposite rest-and-digest response. “Relax your shoulders,” says Ms Goyder. “Breathe low and wide, relax your gaze so that it’s peripheral, soften your jaw and tell your system that you’re safe. When you do that, you can speak to anybody and it’ll feel OK – as long as you’ve practised it.”

02. Fix your text neck

We’re all guilty of what Ms Goyder calls “text neck” – when we lean into our phone screens while checking Instagram, or composing an outrageously witty tweet, so that our heads come forward off our curved spines. As it turns out, this is pretty much the most effective way to kill any confident voice that may have been lurking within you. “Understand the damage that text neck does to your voice,” she says. “It makes your voice thin and flat. If you have a meeting, think ears over shoulders as you walk in. That will really help your voice to be more centred, more powerful, because it positions the larynx in the right place, and it helps you breathe deeply.”

03. Take time to pause

When we’re speaking in public, there’s often a temptation to just power through. For Ms Goyder, this simply isn’t conducive to clear, confident speech. “All speech is out-breath,” she says, “so a pause is really important, because it’s where you take an in-breath. And the quality of your in-breath, is the quality of your voice.” But it’s not just a case of breathing in in any old way; to ensure your voice has a timbre as rich and vibrant as that of Sir Christopher Lee (or close enough), you need to be taking those in-breaths the right way, and plan your speech to accommodate these pauses. “When you breathe in, it’s good to think low and wide, rather than shallow and high. And that is something to practise,” says Ms Goyder.

04. Twist your tongue

“If you find that you stumble over your words sometimes, if you lack articulation and clarity, it’s easy to work on,” says Ms Goyder. “In the morning before you go to work, just do a little bit of a tongue twister, just move the mouth around. Maybe say a line, or say the days of the week and really overdo the clarity.” Think Henry Higgins in My Fair Lady, instructing Eliza Doolittle to recite “the rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain” 50 times each morning. “If you do that before you get to work,” continues Ms Goyder, “the articulators [your tongue and lips] start to work more accurately, and you’ll start to sound much more clear.”

05. Project your voice

Let’s face it, some of us simply aren’t blessed with the big, booming voice we’d like. If you’re one of those people whose voice is more, erm, Mickey Mouse than Mufasa (and is constantly bombarded with comments of “Sorry, can you say that again?”), Ms Goyder suggests projecting your voice to the back wall of the room you’re in. “Just imagine that there’s someone at the back of the room that you want to send your voice to,” she says. “And even as you look at the people in the room, maybe they’re sitting around the table in front of you, just have a sense of your voice bouncing back off that wall. That gives you a little bit of easy, relaxed projection, and, often, that gives people a different level of presence.

Four Ways To Level Up Your Workout In 2020

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The right kit, kettlebells, yoga mat, skipping rope and more to transform your New Year exercise regimen

We’re not going to sit here and tell you that investing in a load of fancy new workout gear is automatically going to make you fit. Unless you’re already operating at the absolute limits of human athletic potential, there’s no magical running shoe capable of lowering your marathon time more effectively than simply training a bit harder will.

That’s not to suggest, though, that upgrading the contents of your gym bag isn’t a good idea. On the contrary: it’s a great one. Whether you’re stepping onto the treadmill or into the office on your first day of a new job, dressing appropriately is a statement of intent. It shows commitment. And what better time to commit to something than now?

To help you on your way, we’ve listed four of our favorite training disciplines for 2020, along with a suggestion of what to wear for each. The four disciplines – all of them as old as the hills – have been chosen because they’re a) easy to pick up and b) offer near-endless scope for improvement.

1. Calisthenics For Core Strength

Why bother lifting weights when you can lift yourself? That’s the argument behind calisthenics, a fitness discipline that uses the effects of gravity on your own bodyweight to build strength, and whose catalog of exercises includes some of the more spectacular things you’re likely to see at the gym, such as the muscle-up and the human flag. 

The benefits? It’s a weight-free workout for a start, which means you don’t need to invest in a stack of dumbbells. In fact, you don’t even need a gym membership: just take a look around your local park, where you’ll often meet guys with upper bodies that put the clientele of the average $150-a-month gym to shame. 

The calisthenics crowd’s impressive physiques also serve to dispel a common myth in the fitness world, which is that the best way to pack on muscle is to pump iron. Yes, there are limits to the gains you’ll be able to make with body-weight exercises alone, but those limits are beyond all but the most seasoned athletes; and besides, weighted calisthenics is always available for those ready to take their workout to the next level.

A straightforward progression for beginners is to start with the humble press-up. Once you can easily do 20 in a row, move onto dips, first on a pair of parallel bars and then on gymnastic rings. Rings offer an extra plane of lateral movement compared to bars, forcing you to use your core muscles in order to stay upright. 

When you can comfortably support your weight on rings, try a raised L-sit (pictured), first with your knees tucked in and eventually with both legs fully extended at 90 degrees to your body. This exercise, which works the abs and hip flexors, is much harder than it looks: if you can hold it for 10 seconds, you’re doing well.

2. Yoga For Flexibility

If you go into yoga expecting it to be easy, it’s likely to be a chastening experience. By extending your normal range of motion and forcing you to support your body weight in strange positions for extended periods of time, it works muscles you didn’t even know you had; it’s not unusual for newcomers with impressive physiques and good stamina to leave their first yoga class shaking like a leaf. 

Keep it up, though, and you’ll soon be rewarded with a body that’s supple, balanced and far stronger than it appears. That’s to say nothing of the well-publicised psychological benefits of yoga, which include enhanced mental focus and reduced stress, nor its power to encourage a more spiritual outlook on life.

Perhaps the most appealing thing about yoga, though, is that no matter how good you get, you’ll always be able to find room for improvement. This is summed up by one of its simplest, most iconic poses: the downward-facing dog (pictured). Anyone who has ever given yoga a try will be familiar with this pose, which forms a key part of the Sun Salutation sequence and deeply stretches your hamstrings, back and shoulders.

Easy to learn but nigh-on impossible to master, the downward-facing dog is a pose that rewards long-term consistency and commitment, and in doing so encapsulates, in miniaturized form, much of what yoga – and, indeed, fitness in general – is all about.

3. Skipping For Cardiovascular Fitness

It’s telling that for all the money and resources available to professional boxers, their preferred tool for cardio training is… a piece of leather string with a wooden handle on each end. But while the skipping rope itself might seem rudimentary, skipping as a form of exercise is anything but.

A high-intensity workout that requires both coordination and balance, skipping is ideal for anyone looking to build stamina and explosive power while maintaining poise, and because it moves your arms and your legs simultaneously, it does a great job of simulating the fatigue – if not the punches – you’ll receive during a single round of boxing.

There are countless variations, too: once you’ve mastered the simple rope skip, you can try throwing in lateral movements, single-foot hops, arm crisscrosses and much more. As with yoga, it’s an accessible form of exercise with infinite potential for improvement – and the added benefit of working your brain as well as your body.

4. Kettlebells For Power

Originating centuries ago in Russia, kettlebells differ from more conventional dumbbells in a few crucial ways. Firstly, they don’t have a grippy, knurled-metal or rubber handle. This allows them to shift within your grip, enabling a whole new range of dynamic movements while also working your grip strength harder than a dumbbell of the same weight.

Then there’s the shape of a standard kettlebell, which lends itself to swinging movements such as the one-armed kettlebell swing (pictured). Not to be attempted until you’ve mastered the two-handed variation, the one-armed swing works out your legs, glutes, arms, shoulders and back – or pretty much your entire body, in other words. The slight rotation of the torso forced by the one-arm variation works the oblique muscles in your core, too.

A great progression for anyone who’s getting tired of dumbbells or looking for a new, dynamic discipline to work into their regimen, kettlebell training is also an essential first step for anyone thinking of getting into powerlifting, a sport with which it shares several core exercises, including the clean, snatch and swing.