Travel

Eight Reasons to Visit Bhutan in 2020

From its luxury retreats to its eco-credentials, here’s why you should head to the Himalayas this year

In 1974, the leaders of a tiny, little-known kingdom on the eastern ridge of the Himalayas between India’s northeastern states and China, made a drastic decision. For the first time, Bhutan would throw open its doors to visitors. In that year, just 287 foreigners discovered a mountainous land shrouded in mystery and Buddhist tradition. Almost 50 years later, Bhutan is firmly on the adventurer’s map. Yet, thanks to the singular approach of its government to tourism, even as it has grown, the country retains its almost mythical status. With hotel openings and a growing focus on sustainable – and luxury – travel, 2020 may be the best year yet to sample the delights of the world’s last Shangri-La. Here are eight reasons why.

1. It’s Not Nepal

Think landlocked Himalayan country and Nepal is probably the first that comes to mind, which is why well over a million people fly there every year. A long-standing fixture on the itineraries of adventurers and free-spirited backpackers, Nepal has become a magnet for tour groups who swarm through the streets of Kathmandu and beyond. You can expect great armies of French septuagenarians in khaki slacks and hiking sandals and gangs of braying gap-year kids in tie-dye harem pants. They are all rewarded for their efforts. Nepal is a stunning country, but the snaking lines of mountaineers on Everest in recent years are a symbol of its broader growth in popularity. It is not, in short, off the beaten track.

2. Its Luxe Game is Strong

Bhutan’s appeal to bigger-spending travellers has, along with its myriad selling points, attracted the attention of the laid-back luxury market. Given its size and remoteness, the country is home to an unusually high number of high-end hotels and resorts. Six Senses, the global pioneer of barefoot luxury, already has four resorts in Bhutan and is due to open its fifth this spring. Six Senses Bumthang will be perhaps its most intimate property, with just eight serene suites and a two-bedroom villa scattered in a riverside pine forest in the Jakar Valley. Aman Resorts also has five lodges in Bhutan under its Amankora brand, while COMO Hotels and Resorts has two. Gangtey Lodge is a standout independent property in the isolated valley of the same name, which is famed for its sacred black-necked cranes.

3. Its People Are Happy

One of Bhutan’s biggest, and unlikely, exports is happiness, or at least the pursuit of it. Since 2008, the tiny country’s government has attempted to measure the happiness of its citizens so that gross national happiness might be considered a more meaningful barometer of national health than traditional economic measures such as gross domestic product. Every five years, government surveyors fan out across the country to quiz 8,000 randomly selected households. Participants receive a day’s wages to sit through 300 questions about health, education, culture, community, ecology and living standards. Bhutan is not immune to the pressures of climate change or globalisation, but its attempt to quantify happiness has inspired similar projects in the UN and beyond.

4. It’s Very Green

Punakha valley from COMO Uma Punakha, Bhutan

Lush woodland covers more than 70 per cent of Bhutan’s land, a green asset that has also helped it to become one of the world’s most environmentally progressive countries. While larger nations are battling to reduce their emissions, Bhutan is already carbon negative. It absorbs three times more CO2 than it emits. All those trees and the nation’s limited development help, but environmental protection is also enshrined in the constitution. Logging exports are banned and tree cover cannot drop below 60 per cent. A reliance on hydropower is part of the picture. The country is also due this year to become the first in the world to go wholly organic in its food production.

5. It’s Still Authentic

In a world where the corporate giants and tourism boards with the budgets of small countries cling to ideas of authenticity, or conjure them out of thin air, Bhutan has set itself apart. Thanks to its newness as a destination and a cautious approach to tourism, the Himalayan idyll has remained unspoilt and effortlessly real. But there is only so much a small country with a small economy can do to maintain its happy equilibrium in the face of multiple global tourism juggernauts, not least from neighbouring China. The advice from those who know Bhutan is simple: go, but go soon.

6. It Has Great Food

Cuisine is yet another area in which Bhutan punches above its weight. While a lot of Himalayan food is hearty and rich, Bhutan also has an insatiable appetite for spice. Plump (organic, naturally) chilli peppers are piled high at markets to be added to dishes and often to be used as the main vegetable (seeds are typically removed for the more sensitive palates of visitors). Chillies are the star of ema datshi, the country’s unofficial national dish, a curry made with cheese and served with red rice, another Bhutanese staple. Chicken and pork also feature heavily and the country has a spicy twist on momo, the soul-warming boiled dumplings found across the mountainous states of south Asia.

7. It’s Not Crowded

Bhutan’s solution to the great tourism paradox of an increasingly mobile world – balancing the need for visitors with their generally destructive impact on land, traditions and culture – has been to aim high. Better to attract 100 wealthy travellers with big daily budgets than 1,000 backpackers competitively boasting about their 50p-a-night hostels. To help achieve this less-is-more approach to travel, the country imposes a pretty keen minimum cost of travel of $250 per person per day. This applies to groups of three or more (there are separate charges for solo travellers or those in pairs), who must also travel with accredited agencies and stay in hotels of three stars or more. Tourism is growing for sure, but at about 275,000 visitors per year, it still has a relatively low impact.

8. Its Buddhist Heritage is Spectacular

Paro Taktsang, “Tiger’s Nest”, Paro Valley, Bhutan

Bhutan’s Taj Mahal is the Tiger’s Nest, or Paro Takstang. Perched precariously on a cliffside some 900m above the surrounding rice fields of Paro Valley, the monastery has for more than three centuries been one of the most sacred sites in the Himalayas. Guru Rinpoche himself, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism, is supposed to have meditated for years inside a cave at the heart of the temple. Visitors are made to work for the sweeping views and spiritual enlightenment. The trail to the monastery winds up steeply through pine forests past pilgrims and fluttering prayer flags. Yet it is only one of dozens of Buddhist sites across Bhutan that rival any in Asia. Dzong, a majestic fortress, sits among jacaranda trees in the Punakha valley and is where Bhutanese kings are crowned. The country is also known for its spectacular archery competitions and textiles.

The 5 Most Romantic Hotels in the U.S.

by Noah Johnson

Seal the deal with a stay at one of the most romantic hotels in the U.S.—we’re talking breathtaking views, incredible food and wine, and cuddle-worthy digs to get you in the mood.By Lindsey OlanderJanuary 23, 2020

1. Hoa Kea Hotel & Resort, Kauai, HI

A Kauai mega-resort this is not. The polar opposite of its sprawling southern coast neighbors—with their water slides and countless poolside bars—Koa Kea offers a true escape from reality, and exactly what we expect from one of the most romantic hotels in the U.S. The 121 rooms, decked out with chaise lounges and Hawaiian hues, come with their own balconies or lanais, while the rest of the amenities keep things romantically quiet; there’s a simple, deep blue swimming pool, a top-notch restaurant that turns out elegant plates of sashimi, and a luxury five-room spa to fill your time between strolls along the waterfront.

Check Prices for Koa Kea Hotel & Resort in Waikoloa, HI

$386 Booking.com

2. Gramercy Park Hotel, New York, NY

Ian Schrager brought sexy back to Gramercy when he overhauled this 1924 icon with a serious dose of boho cool. Expect jewel-tone guest rooms featuring velvet headboards and “drinking cabinets” stocked with crystal glassware; a crimson lobby with a dominating crystal chandelier and 10-foot fireplace; and two buzzy bars, the Jade and Rose, where walls are hung with tapestries and rotating pieces of art by the likes of Warhol and Basquiat. The cherry on top: guests have exclusive access to the otherwise residents-only Gramercy Park.

$364 Booking.com

3. Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur, CA

As far as coastal America goes, it doesn’t get more beautiful than Big Sur—which might explain why celebs make a beeline for Post Ranch Inn, set on a 1,200-foot-ridge overlooking the Pacific. For ultimate privacy, book one of the 40 adults-only standalone homes or suites, with floor-to-ceiling views of the Santa Lucia Mountains or the water. With no TVs or clocks and complimentary in-room minibars, you won’t have many distractions.

4. Hotel Wailea, Maui, HI

Unlike its flashier cousins on Wailea Beach, this 72-room sanctuary set on a 15-acre hilltop is as tranquil as they come. The apartment-style suites are spacious and light-filled, with open-air showers, private lanais, and sweeping views of three outlying islands. Designed exclusively for couples, the hotel’s adults-only policy keeps the vibe deliriously romantic; canoodle poolside in a private cabana with a tropical cocktail, enjoy a massage in the secluded gazebo, or wine and dine on seafood in the award-winning restaurant while watching the sun slip behind the horizon. JS Tip: don’t worry about the lack of beachfront. Cars are on call to whisk you down to the shore, picnic lunch in tow.

$899 Booking.com

5. Enchantment Resort, Sedona, AZ

See Red Rock Country in all its glory at this 70-acre Southwest-style resort. Formerly a private ranch, the hotel is made up of adobe casitas bordered by pine trees and the rust-colored cliffs of Boynton Canyon. Inside, kiva fireplaces and Native American patterns echo the surrounding terrain. Spend your days taking dips at the resort’s pools, hiking and biking nearby trails, playing tennis, or kicking back with your person at the Mii Amo spa.

$425 Booking.com

Best Hotels in San Francisco

by Elliot Kingsley

After experiencing the City by the Bay’s candy-colored Victorian townhouses and rustic cable cars, award-winning art and food scenes, and neighborhoods both leafy (the Presidio) and techy (Mid-Market), it’s easy to see why Tony Bennett’s famous ballad “I Left My Heart in San Francisco” rings home for more than just its residents. Whether you’re visiting for business or pleasure, the 10 best San Francisco hotels measure up.

1. Proper Hotel

In the newest addition to emerging Mid-Market, interiors by designer Kelly Wearstler could not be more of a departure than the 1907 building’s flatiron-shaped red-brick façade. A mash-up of styles, colors, and patterns dominates every corner: bold wallpaper clashes with plaid upholstery and bare wooden floors, staff wear checkered suits and floral ties. It’s bohemian and eclectic and, somehow, it all works. Arguably, even more emphasis was placed on the hotel’s social spaces—‘gram-worthy interiors outshined only by their food and drink. The neighborhood’s cool crowd pours into Villon, the salon-style lobby restaurant, for seasonal American cuisine; on the rooftop, cocktail lounge Charmaine’s seduces with fire pits, city views, and fabulous libations like Let Me Touch Your Mind (made with Banks 5 rum, coconut cream, pineapple, and lime, topped with a Negroni).

2. Hotel Kabuki

One of the biggest reasons to stay in underrated Japantown: Hotel Kabuki, a trendy 225-room sleep fresh from a $31 million renovation. Its 1960s building is now a refreshing take on mid-century modern design with a Japanese twist: a glassed-lobby lobby opens out onto a bonsai garden, rooms are artfully decorated with orchids and edgy pop art, and a feeling of Zen pervades in guest rooms in the form of framed calligraphy, sisal carpeting, and shibori-crafted cloth headboards. Along with an authentic bathhouse, there’s a trendy lobby bar, where you’ll find more than 20 varieties of sake to pair with fusion bites. Of course, the neighborhood itself is a treasure trove of ramen restaurants, sushi joints, and karaoke bars for even more cultural immersion.

3. Inn at the Presidio

Tired of the traffic and the crowds? Set inside Presidio, a 1,400-acre former U.S. army outpost turned National Park site, the Inn at the Presidio is where to stay if you want to feel far away from the noise of the city. The historic Georgian revival-style brick building was restored as a charming lodge and now has 22 sophisticated rooms done up in wooden rattan chairs and antiques as well as a white porch lined with rocking chairs where you can look out onto the property—an oasis of cypress and eucalyptus trees, quiet hiking trails, and rolling fields with views of the bay and the Golden Gate Bridge. Even better than the views, though, are the warmth of the staff and your surrounds, where complimentary continental breakfast and an evening happy hour with wine and cheese keep guests close to home.

4. Fairmont San Francisco

A San Francisco institution, the Fairmont holds pride of place at the top of Nob Hill and remains as stately as it was when it opened back in 1906. Opulent interiors include a jaw-dropping lobby with towering columns and decorative ceilings, three restaurants (including one that hosts afternoon tea), a private garden patio, state-of-the-art wellness spa, and 658 classy rooms and suites equipped with Keurigs and MP3 docking stations and—from almost every one of them—sweeping views of downtown San Francisco. Don’t miss the basement Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar, a tiki bar famous for its floating band (yes, there’s a man-made lagoon in there), spontaneous thunderstorms (à la The Rainforest Café), and coconut-cradled Mai Tais.

5. Tilden Hotel

SF’s gritty yet fast-changing Tenderloin district might explain the reasonable room rates behind the Tilden Hotel, but this is far more than just your basic budget find. The ground floor’s low-slung couches and natural lights make it feel more like a living room than a lobby, and there’s more surprises in store in the form of a hidden garden and local artwork. Upstairs, a Scandinavian-like urban minimalism—courtesy of Brooklyn-based design firm Studio Tack—give guest rooms a sleek-yet-homey feel with cherry wood and white walls, framed plant artwork, shuttered windows, and bathroom products by Malin + Goetz. Pecking? Order up room service (tater tots; Wagyu beef burgers) from ground-floor cocktail lounge The Douglas Room—or grab an espresso and croissant to go from the curbside café, which is fast becoming one of the area’s go-tos for morning coffee.

6. The Alise

Steps from Union Square, this cute, whimsical property was designed for the new generation of travelers hoping to find style, affordability, and next-level amenities all in on package. The Alise delivers on all of it: rooms are small but comfortable and well-designed (psst—there’s free WiFi), the open lobby is full of conversation-sparking art pieces, guests are treated to daily cupcake happy hours as well as complimentary bicycles for pedaling around the waterfront, and there’s even an elevated bistro and lounge for rendezvousing with fellow travelers, friends, family, or whomever you’ve brought for the ride.

7. The Kimpton Buchanan

Set away from the downtown, the Kimpton Buchanan marries details inspired by its Japantown setting—shibori pillows and kimono robes in Zenned-out guest rooms; daily wine and sake mixers—with chic, urban touches in the form of modern light fixtures, video installations in the lobby, and glad-they-have-them extras like yoga mats and umbrellas. You’ll feel like you’re living in a real neighborhood here—Buchanan is well within walking distance of incredible restaurants like Pizzeria Delfina as well as Pacific Heights—but we could see you just as easily spending time right where you are, enjoying the peace (and lawn games) of the private interior courtyard and chowing down on shabu shabu at second-floor restaurant Mums.

8. Hotel Drisco

As far as neighborhoods go, it doesn’t get much fancier in San Francisco than Pacific Heights, whose streets are lined with politician-owned mansions, international consulates, and some of the prettiest townhouses in the Bay Area occupied by some of its wealthiest residents. Hotel Drisco lets you pretend like you’re one of them. Outside, it looks like an expensive apartment building; inside is unsurprisingly posh—all dark wood furnishings, rich textiles, and gold fixtures—with spacious guest rooms overlooking the city served by staff in waistcoats and next-level inclusions like evening wine receptions in the parlor. Worried you’re too far from town? Drisco’s complimentary town-car service is on hand to get you whenever you need to go.

9. The St. Regis San Francisco

Anyone talking about urban luxury is surely talking about the St. Regis San Francisco, which occupies a 40-story SoMa tower within spitting distance of the Museum of Modern Art near the financial district. This is the socialite’s sleep of choice, and it’s no wonder: personal butlers escort guests to their rooms, which are minimal but sumptuous with leather walls and deep soaking tubs. The place to see and be seen is the lobby bar, where San Francisco’s business-minded movers and shakers come for stiff drinks and live jazz before dinners at Grill. If it’s privacy you seek, you’re better off booking an appointment at the two-floor Remède Spa, which has its own 50-foot lap pool and relaxation rooms stocked with truffles and champagne.

10. Laurel Inn

Some might balk at Laurel Inn’s address, tucked away at the edge of the Presidio instead of downtown, but anyone looking to swap city living for a cozy home away from home should look no further. A studio-style redesign has given new life to this 1950s-era former motor inn—think mid-century modern furniture, original art by Bay Area locals, and even kitchenettes in some of the 49 rooms—while thoughtful extras include around-the-clock coffee and tea, a music- and movie-lending library, and on-site parking. Bonus: the area’s best restaurants and shops are less than a block away on Sacramento Street.